The authenticity issue of Hermès handbags has become increasingly worrisome in the last few years, especially with fake handbags that are almost impossible to tell apart from authentic ones. Due to this situation, people that want to buy Hermès online need to be very alert to be able to identify a fake Hermès handbag.
At The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House we understand the struggle of purchasing a Hermès bag online and not knowing if the product is authentic, this is why we have created this guide to identify a fake Hermès handbag by knowing how a real Hermès bag should be.
Pay attention and discover how to pick a genuine Hermès bag and avoid scams. We will also dive deeper into the existing levels of authentication and show you where it is the safest to purchase a new Hermès bag online and at the best prices.
- Physical examination
- Document examination
- Authenticity levels
Physical examination
Although it is not the safest of ways to know that a Hermès bag is real, it is still a very important inspection that must be done to every bag to make sure that the Hermès authentication elements are present, only this way you can start to suspect that it is indeed an original bag.
With the troubles of authenticity in the resale market, nowadays you can’t rely on the physical inspection alone, as fake bags have become sophisticated and very well done, so to be sure you need a combination of the physical examination and the documents examination. However, we will show you detailed instructions to check the physical characteristics of a Hermès handbag. We will give you a general approach, but mention specific details about Birkin, Kelly and Constance bags.
If you want to check detailed authentication guides about each handbag, consult these posts:
Skins, touch, smell and weight
Hermès leathers are very diverse and they all have different textures and smells that identify them as authentic, so the first thing you need to notice on a Hermès bag are its materials.
Bags made of calfskin tend to be smooth, with a subtle grainy feel and vertical veining, as well as a supple quality, their smell is that of leather, so it is very characteristic and genuine. It must be mentioned that not all calfskin bags are supple, there are variations that are stiffer, such as Epsom, commonly used in the crafting of Hermès bags in Sellier construction. As well as there are some that don’t have grains, or they are too subtle to the touch, it all depends on the type of calfskin.
Bags made of alligator, crocodile and lizard skins are all scaly, these scales can be felt to the touch, in the case of the Crocodile Porosus skin, there are pores on each scale, so they should also feel to the touch. These skins can all be found on matte or lissé (glossy) finish.
Bags made of ostrich are very peculiar, the touch is incredibly smooth and rich with distinctive pores that indicate the place in which the feathers used to be. Ostrich skin tends to evolve and brings out incredible patinas with time, making colors richer and deeper.
Goatskin handbags are very similar to calfskin bags, they also have visible and palpable grains, although they are more close together than calfskin grains. Goatskin smell is also of strong natural leather. It must be noted that every Hermès bag interior is lined with Chévre Mysore goatskin, it is chosen for its remarkable resistance and strength.
Very bad imitations of Hermès handbags tend to be made of plastic, exuding a strong chemical smell, and offering a plastic touch to them, they also tend to be lighter than expected, whilst original Hermès handbags, no matter the material, have a certain weight to them, because they are made of natural skins.
Be careful when examining Hermès bags and its materials, as some fake bags are also made of natural leather. Be aware!
General structure
In order to tell a fake bag from an original you need to know very well each Hermès handbag structure, as they are very specific and need to be impeccable to be declared as genuine. Here are some specific details to each bag’s structure:
- Birkin bag: A rectangular tote bag with a flap divided in three, two “U” shaped firm handles, two closing straps with plaques and a turning closure. The Birkin bag includes a clochette with a padlock and two keys. The bag has four bottom feet that help it sit straight when placed on a surface. The mid section of a Birkin bag can slouch slightly due to the material’s weight, but it is only possible on a Retourné construction. The interior of the Birkin bag includes a zippered pocket on the back panel that finishes with a “H” and an open pocket on the front panel. The size of the pockets varies depending on the size of the bag. The mechanism to open the zipper also includes a diamond shaped leather piece.
- Kelly bag: A trapezoidal bag with a straight flap, one sturdy and thick firm handle, two closing straps with plaques and a turning closure. Kelly bags also come with a clochette that stores two keys and a padlock.Kelly bags have four bottom feet to sit perfectly straight when placed on a surface. The skin can slouch a little bit if it is a Kelly in Retourné version. Kelly bags also come with a detachable strap that is not adjustable, it can be attached to the bag’s rings by two clasps. The interior of the Kelly bag features a zippered pocket on the back panel that finishes with an “H” metal piece, and an open pocket on the front panel. The size of the pockets varies depending on the size of the bag. The interior zipper has a diamond-shaped leather piece to open and close the mechanism.
- Constance bag: A small square and compact handbag, it has a straight flap with an “H” shaped closing clasp, all of the “H” serifs are pointing outwards. The Constance bag also features a non-removable and non-adaptable strap. The Constance has a very simple and minimalist style. Inside it may have two compartments or one compartment depending on the type of construction. The Constance bags with an interior zippered pocket also feature the diamond-shaped leather piece to open and close the zipper.
Aside from the overall Hermès bags’ structures, there are also two types of constructions that can be applied specifically to Birkin and Kelly bags. Here we explain them in detail so you can recognize them:
- Sellier: The Sellier construction entails a more rigid structure with stitches that are present in the outside of the bag, providing a sharper and stronger shape. The Sellier construction was the original shape of the Kelly bag, but it was then applied to some Birkin bags, especially those crafted in Epsom calfskin, which is a sturdier leather. The Sellier construction is named after the type of stitching required to make horse saddles, and it follows Hermès traditions and origins as an equestrian workshop.
- Retourné: The Retourné construction is a more relaxed and soft type of structure, it is made by stitching the bag from the inside out, creating a characteristic piping in the outside, instead of the visible Sellier stitches. This type of construction makes for a more flexible bag, and it was originally unique to Birkin bags, but it was then introduced as a new construction for Kelly bags.
Stitching
Hermès stitching is one of the most acclaimed characteristics of the brand, and therefore it needs to be completely impeccable to be identified as authentic. Hermès bags should have diagonal stitches that are hand-made, they are meticulous and symmetrical, which means that if there are a certain number of stitches on one side of the bag, there should be the same number on the other side.
Hermès bags’ seams don’t come loose easily, because they are made with the same technique that Thierry Hermès used to create horse saddles, which makes for sturdy stitches that last for decades in perfect condition. The seams are also sealed with beeswax, so they should be perfectly secured to the piece. If you see inconsistent stitching, or seams that are too straight, it may be a fake bag, as it indicates that it was made with a sewing machine.
The seams applied to Hermès handbags are made with pure linen thread that matches the exact color of the handbag. However, there are certain bags that are crafted with stitches in other colors; such as Special Order handbags, Limited-edition handbags or certain bags in specific colorways, such as Gold, Etoupe, Fauve, Blue Jean, Sienne (in some leathers), Etrusque (in some leathers).
Hardware
Hermès hardware is notable for its lustrous appearance and sturdy construction, it is made of brass (an alloy of copper and zinc) and then plated in gold, palladium, permabrass or ruthenium. Every piece of hardware on the Hermès handbags should be solid, with certain weight to it, as they are plated in precious metals. They display a shiny finish, with the exception of brushed gold and brushed palladium, that feature a matte quality. Hermès hardware can never peel off, this is an indication of a fake bag.
The consistency of Hermès hardware is remarkable, every single piece should be plated on the same metal in a single bag, which means that if you have a bag with gold hardware, all the pieces should be plated in gold, there can’t be any mixing of colors or metals. Next, we will detail all the pieces of hardware present on each Hermès bag model:
Birkin bag:
- Turning closure
- Closing straps’ plaques
- Square hooks
- Padlock
- Keys
- Bottom feet
- Interior zipper
Kelly bag:
- Turning closure
- Closing straps’ plaques
- Padlock
- Keys
- Strap clasps
- Handle rings
- Bottom feet
- Interior zipper
Constance:
- “H” shaped closing clasp
- Top square hoops
- Interior zipper
Metal engravings
Hermès takes an extra step to identify its creations as authentic, and this is why it applies specific metal engravings to its hardware. These engravings are done with precision, following the specific Hermès font, they are easy to read and perfectly positioned. All of the metal engravings that include the “Hermès” word have the French accent mark present.
These are the metal engravings you need to look for to know if your Hermès bag is authentic:
- “Hermès – Paris”: This engraving is present at the front of the left closing strap plaque of Birkin and Kelly bags, and under the “H” closing clasp on Constance bags.
- Gold authenticity square symbol: Exclusively on handbags with gold hardware, either yellow, pink, white or even brushed gold, a little square symbol is marked next to the “Hermès – Paris” engraving. This symbol indicates that the gold used for the hardware is real.
- “Hermès”: This simple engraving can be found on interior zippers of all bags, and on clasps attached to the strap of Kelly bags.
- Padlock and keys engravings: These pieces of hardware specifically are the ones that bear more detailed engravings, starting with the “H” pattern on padlocks, as well as the vertical lines that are engraved on the keys to match the padlocks. Aside from that, the keys display an engraved number that must match the number at the bottom of the padlock. Under the padlock there is also another engraving featuring the “Hermès” word.
It must be noted that today even the smallest detail can be mimicked on fake bags, this is why you need to look very closely to detect the slightest mistake that can tell a fake from an original bag.
Date stamps
Date stamps are one of the best ways to prove the authenticity of a Hermès bag, as they are unique codes that are heat-stamped on the bags to identify them as genuine and specific pieces, and they should be present on the official invoice when purchasing the bag.
Date stamps indicate many things at the same time, they are not only a type or serial number to mark a bag, but also denote the year in which the bag was crafted, as well as the workshop and the country in which it was made.
These codes are composed of 8 characters, mixing letters and numbers. The first letter always denotes the year of creation of the bag, whilst the rest of the digits represent the workshop in which the handbag was crafted and the country where it is located.
Hermès date stamps can be found on the upper left corner of the interior of the bags, close to the top seams. This applies to bags from the most recent years, as in previous years it could be found heat-stamped on the interior of the left closing strap of Birkin and Kelly bags, and on the interior of the Constance’s strap.
Hermès date stamps use a system of letters and shapes to identify the year of creation and the artisan’s code; this system originated in 1945, with letters following the alphabetical order. Initially, from 1945 to 1970, date stamps consisted of letters only, without any accompanying shapes. The system evolved between 1971 and 1996, introducing a circular shape alongside the letters. Subsequently, from 1997 to 2014, a square shape accompanied the date stamp letters. Since 2015, date stamps no longer incorporate shapes.
These are the letters to identify the year of creation of Hermès bags:
It must be noted that date stamps are not exempt from being falsified, many counterfeiters use date stamps of original handbags that they buy to stamp them into fake handbags and create copies of them. They also use pictures of authentic bags online and steal the code to stamp it on counterfeited bags. This means that a Hermès bag can’t be certified as authentic by relying only on its date stamp.
Prints
Prints are other small details that Hermès applies to its bags to identify them as original pieces. These prints always read: “Hermès – Paris – Made in France” including the French accent mark on the brand’s name. They are always located under the closing flap of Birkin, Kelly and Constance bags, a few millimeters below the top seams. Although the same print should also be spotted on the Kelly bag’s strap, close to one of the clasps.
The “Hermès – Paris – Made in France” print is very specific, it is written in all caps with a unique font and it can’t be too large nor too small. This print should always be of the same color as the hardware of the bag; this means that if you have a bag with gold hardware, the print should be made with a golden hue, and if you have a bag with palladium hardware, the print should be made with a silver or white hue. This is a key point to identify a fake bag!
Aside from the common Hermès print seen on every bag, there are also additional special symbols that can be printed next to this logo, these symbols can denote some details about the bag, especially the type of exotic skins used for its creation, as well as other details about the bag’s origin. Here we show you the meaning of each Hermès special symbol print:
- Square (☐): It denotes that the material used to create the bag was Alligator Mississippiensis skin.
- Caret (^): It indicates that the skin that composes the bag is Crocodile Porosus.
- Two dots: (··): Represent that the bag was made with Crocodile Niloticus skin.
- Dash (-): It denotes that the bag was made with Varanus Niloticus Lizard skin.
- Equal sign (=): It indicates that the bag was crafted in Varanus Salvator Lizard skin.
- Horseshoe: The little horseshoe symbol printed alongside the main print indicates that the bag is a HSS or special order requested by a client, this means that the bag is unique and was custom made.
- Shooting Star: The shooting star symbol is very rare to find and it is reserved only for handbags made specifically for Hermès workshop workers.
- Sale (S): The “S” symbol is extremely rare, and it is actually not printed but heat-stamped next to the “Hermès – Paris – Made in France” print. Its true meaning has not been completely confirmed, but it is said that it represents bags sold at lower prices to other Hermès employees.
The special prints are also important details to look for if you’re purchasing a bag made of an exotic skin, if these prints are missing, or the symbol doesn’t represent the skin of the bag that you bought, it is most likely a counterfeit.
Packaging
The packaging of a Hermès bag or the additional components that come with it are also crucial to know if a bag is a fake or an original piece. Here we give you more details about the packaging and the additional elements that should come with your Hermès bag:
- Hermès original box: Authentic Hermès packaging is crucial when purchasing a bag; its absence may indicate a counterfeit or potentially stolen item. The original orange box should feature a distinct bright hue and a small printed Hermès logo on the lid. It should be spacious enough to accommodate the bag without excess room. For newer bags, use a UV light to reveal hidden Hermès logos printed all over the lid in invisible ink, a feature that distinguishes an original box from a fake.
- Dust bag: Dust bags play a protective role for Hermès bags and should be inside the box covering the bag. These bags are made of dense herringbone cotton in beige with a brown drawstring, displaying a crisp and clean Hermès logo with a double circle around it. Pay attention to the details on the horse, carriage, and man on the logo. Birkin bags should include two dust bags, one for the bag and a smaller one for the clochette, while Kelly bags should have three dust bags, one for the bag, one for the clochette, and one for the detachable strap. Constance bags come only with one dust bag.
- Leather booklet: In more recent Hermès handbags, a small booklet titled “Le Cuir Hermès” is included inside an envelope with a relief logo. This booklet details the materials used in Hermès bags, providing clients with more information. For recently produced Hermès handbags, this booklet should be inside the box.
- Rain protection: Rain covers should be present inside boxes of specific-sized Birkin and Kelly bags: Birkin 30, 35, and 40, and Kelly 25, 28, 32, 35, and 40. Constance bags and Birkin 25 or Kelly 20 bags should not have rain protection, as this indicates a fake. The rain protection should come inside a plastic sealed bag with a booklet detailing the bags that include it and a brief description. However, recently Hermès stopped including the rain cover with its bags to show their support for environmental protection.
These components need to be present when purchasing a Hermès bag online, even if it is in pre-loved condition. If someone tries to sell you a bag without a box or a dust bag, be suspicious and don’t buy it, it could be stolen or a counterfeit.
Document examination
Although the physical examination of a Hermès bag is crucial to verify its authenticity, there are even further details that need to be examined to know for sure that a bag is authentic. There are some documents that need to be carefully inspected to see if they match all the information that you have about the bag. We will detail them down below.
Hermès official invoice
The official Hermès invoice is the one issued at the store when a bag is purchased, this invoice includes certain details that need to match perfectly to all the characteristics of the bag, such as the model, size, type of construction, skin, color, hardware and date stamp. All these details ensure that this specific bag was bought at an official store, and that it was done at a certain date and time and for a certain amount of money.
Although Hermès invoices are very important documents, they are not completely reliable on their own, as they can be easily falsified if there are no other documents to prove that the purchase was performed exactly at that specific date and time, and for the specific amount.
Remember that there are also counterfeiters that purchase original bags and then create copies of the same bag to sell them, so they can provide forged invoices using the original one.
Card payment ticket
Payment tickets or vouchers are important documents that can be compared to official invoices. These tickets issued by the store when paying with a card contain data about the transaction, such as the date in which the purchase was made, the exact time and amount paid with the card. These little details can be contrasted with those that show on the official Hermès invoice to verify that the transaction matches.
The payment tickets are more difficult to falsify, which is a positive point to demonstrate that a bag is authentic. However, there are extra documents and steps that you can take to assure that the bag is completely genuine.
Bank statement
This proof of authenticity is the rarest and the most difficult to ask for, since it contains personal data about the person that purchased the bag at the store. However, it is a perfect way to demonstrate that the official invoice and the payment ticket are valid and authentic, meaning that if the physical characteristics of the bag are perfect, then the bag is real.
The bank statement can be requested just as a measure to prove the traceability of the purchase, and sellers don’t need to provide original documents or identification numbers, they just need to provide the transaction number, with the date, time and amount, this is enough to confirm and validate the information. Sellers have the right to cover some personal details on the bank statement, or they can even refuse to provide it, as per the law of personal data protection.
Authenticity levels
When purchasing a Hermès handbag online, there is a high risk of buying a fake handbag, this is why there are certain authentication levels that you must have in mind when looking to buy a bag at the different marketplaces available on the internet.
Here we detail the levels of authenticity that a Hermès bag can meet to be declared as authentic:
- Low: At the most basic level, low-authenticity Hermès bags may initially appear genuine but reveal subtle flaws upon closer examination, indicating their counterfeit nature. Often lacking original packaging, these replicas are hastily crafted and lack the meticulous craftsmanship of authentic bags. Despite these telltale signs, unsuspecting buyers may overlook these flaws, risking the purchase of counterfeit or potentially stolen goods.
- Standard Low: At this level, a Hermès handbag appears authentic at first glance. Upon inspection of the provided pictures or a physical examination, everything seems correct, including accompanying components like the box, dust bag, rain protection, and leather booklet. However, this assessment is based solely on the bag’s outward appearance. It’s important to note that there are many highly detailed counterfeit bags that are nearly indistinguishable from authentic ones. This level of authenticity can be found in many Hermès handbags sold in marketplaces.
- Standard: The standard level of authenticity involves having official invoices from Hermès stores or certificates from marketplaces that have inspected the bag. While Hermès invoices are important for authenticating a handbag, they are not foolproof, as they can be forged. Similarly, certificates from marketplaces may be based on physical examination or just on photos, so they should not be relied upon completely. This is because counterfeiters can create fake handbags with such precision that they are virtually indistinguishable from authentic ones. They can use the same materials and hardware as Hermès, and may even include date stamps that match those on official invoices. Even if the handbag, packaging, and invoice appear authentic, there is always some level of uncertainty.
- Standard High: At a standard high authenticity level, Hermès handbags are scrutinized physically and come with the official invoice and in some occasions a marketplace certificate. A key additional document is the payment receipt from the store, which verifies crucial details like purchase date, time, and amount. Matching these with the invoice provides strong evidence of the bag’s authenticity, although additional documentation may be needed for complete verification.
- High: The high level of authenticity involves having traceability documents such as bank statements that match the payment details and official Hermès invoices. Every detail must align including the date, time, and exact transaction amount. Some sellers may be hesitant to provide bank statements due to privacy concerns, but they can show a version of the bank statements that covers personal information while still proving the transaction details. This level of authenticity is rarely found in online marketplaces, as few sellers can provide such specific documentation.
- Maximum: The highest level of authenticity goes beyond the previous levels by including proof of purchase and identity documents of the previous owners. Sellers may provide information about the previous transactions or contracts from the original purchase at the store, without revealing personal data. These documents are not given as copies but are shown to prove the authenticity of the transaction, while respecting data protection laws. They are only used in legal matters and are not provided to buyers with each purchase, but just shown. This level of authenticity is not common in regular marketplaces but may be found at The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House online store, where bags are labeled to indicate their authentication levels.
The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House is the only known marketplace to provide authenticity levels to each of its handbags, going from standard to maximum, so at our online store you can find a reliable and trustworthy service to purchase the Hermès handbags you need without the risks of buying fake bags.
Best of all, at The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House you will be able to find brand new in box Hermès handbags fresh from the store and at the best prices of the resale market. This way you’re not only acquiring a handbag with enough proof of authenticity, but also a brand new in box product at amazing prices.
We hope that this guide was of help for you to spot a fake Hermès handbag and avoid falling for scams. Now you’re prepared to be cautious and know that The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House is a trustworthy marketplace to buy new Hermès handbags online.
Don’t miss the chance and explore our online store today!