Glossary of Terms for Hermès Bags

If you’re a new Hermès client or you already have a Hermès bags’ collection, there are certain terms that you have probably come across with, these terms are related to the Hermès brand and its handbags, so in order to understand the Hermès world better and be able to know more about the luxury accessories you own, you can learn about these terms.

At the Birkin’s & Kelly’s House we have developed this Glossary of Terms for Hermès Bags so that you can look for the words you need to improve your Hermès’ knowledge and be updated about all the Hermès handbags’ terms, so you can use them properly while searching for a bag online or if you plan to sell one in the future. Keep reading and discover these terms for Hermès bags!

1. Handbag’s structure related
   • Sellier
   • Retourné
   • Clochette
   • Tiret
   • Lock
   • Clou
   • Gusset
   • Plaque
   • Sangles
   • Touret
   • Pontet
   • Hardware
   • Perlage
2. Hardware abbreviation terms
3. Hermès’ skins related
   • Alligator Mississippiensis
   • Niloticus Crocodile
   • Porosus Crocodile
   • Varanus Niloticus Lizard
   • Varanus Salvator Lizard
4. Hermès bags’ abbreviations
5. Hermès’ bags editions abbreviation terms
6. Other Hermès’ abbreviations and terms

Handbag’s structure related

Here we will identify certain names of components that are part of the Hermès bags’ general structure, skins and hardware. Get to know them and identify them easily!

Sellier

This term denotes a type of construction for Birkin and Kelly bags. This construction is characterized by its firm appearance and sturdy finish, and it is made by creating stitches in the outside of the bag, providing a structured shape and durability. This type of construction was original and unique for Kelly bags, but it was then adapted to Birkin bags.

Hermès bags with Sellier construction are typically made of Epsom calfskin, as it is a sturdy leather that can hold its shape very well. The Sellier name makes reference to the hand-stitching method applied by Thierry Hermès for the creation of horse saddles back in 1837, honoring the brand’s legacy.

Retourné

Retourné is the second construction option for Birkin and Kelly bags, it entails backwards stitching, which means the handbag is turned inside out to be hand-stitched, offering a slouchier appearance and a soft supple touch. The Retourné construction showcases piping on the outside of the bag instead of visible stitches. This type of construction was originally made only for Birkin bags, but it then extended to Kelly bags as well.

Retourné bags are commonly crafted in supple calfskin, such as Togo, Taurillon Clemence and Swift. The term Retourné means “revert” implying the method used to stitch the handbag turning it inside out.

Clochette

The clochette refers to the small leather cover that is used to store Birkin’s and Kelly’s keys. The word clochette means “little bell” in French, which makes reference to the peculiar shape that the leather cover has. Oftentimes the word can also be used to refer to the whole leather strip and cover, but it is actually just identifying the cover.

Tiret

The tiret refers to the leather strip that is attached to Birkin’s and Kelly’s handles from where the clochette and padlock hang. Tiret is a French word that means “cord”, which can perfectly describe the appearance of this leather piece. The word Tiret is almost never used to make reference to this component of the Hermès bags, but it is the official term.

Lock

The lock or padlock is the one included in all Birkin and Kelly bags hanging from the Tiret, alongside the two keys stored in the Clochette. The lock constitutes an important piece that not only is a Hermès’ signature touch, but it is also essential to keep the contents of the bag secure.

Most owners opt for not wearing the lock at all times, as it can be a limitation to access the interior of the handbag quickly, but it is a very important component to all Birkin and Kelly bags.

Some owners use the padlock as a signature Hermès symbol, decorating their bag with it, this is why they choose to hang it from the tiret and let it be displayed alongside the bag as a beautiful adornment.

Clou

Clou are the little bottom studs or feet that are applied to Birkin and Kelly bags to keep them standing on flat surfaces. These feet are important pieces of hardware and they should always match the rest of the hardware on the bag. The word Clou means “nail” in French, which is a perfect way to describe how these bottom feet are applied, as they are not screwed in but hammered into the bottom of the bag.

Gusset

Gusset makes reference to the extra pieces of leather or skin that can be located at the two sides of a bag or at the bottom (in the case of the Constance bag) to open additional space for bigger storage. Constance bags usually feature the best example for gussets, as depending on how many compartments they have, they can show a single or double gusset, providing a chance for more storage space.

Kelly and Birkin bags also feature gussets at the top on each lateral of the bag, which allows them to expand further for more storage or retract for a slimmer appearance.

Plaque

The plaques are the little pieces of metal that can be found on the sangles of Birkin and Kelly bags, these plaques are designed to fit perfectly with the touret or turning closure. Both plaques are fixed to the sangles by pressure with a hammer, ensuring a perfect appearance and a lasting finish.

The left plaque of Birkin and Kelly bags bears the most important metal engraving used as a symbol of authenticity, and that is the “Hermès – Paris” engraving.

Sangles

The sangles are the two leather closing straps located at the front of Birkin and Kelly bags, these straps are made to facilitate the closing system of the bag, as they bear the plaques that fit with the Touret to lock the bag. On Birkin bags, the sangles are supported by small pieces of metal called Pontet.

Touret

The Touret is the signature turning closure applied to Birkin and Kelly bags. It was originally created for Kelly bags, but thanks to the uniqueness of this closing system and the fame that acquired during its golden years, the brand incorporated the Touret to the Birkin bag too.

Nowadays, the Kelly Touret can be found in a wide range of Hermès accessories, from bracelets to footwear and other jewelry options. The word Touret in French means “reel” because the shape of the Touret is very similar to that of a thread reel, with a cylindrical appearance.

Pontet

The Pontet is the name used to denote the two small pieces of metal, similar to squared hooks that are present only on Birkin bags, and that hold the sangles in position. The Pontet allows the sangles to remain firm and offer a cleaner look to the bag.

Hardware

Hardware is the name with which every single piece of metal on Hermès bags is identified. Hermès hardware is made of highly luxurious materials. First it is crafted in brass and then plated with gold, palladium, permabrass or ruthenium. Every piece of hardware on a single Hermès bag should be of the same plating, this is a clear indicator of authenticity.

Perlage

Perlage is a process applied to certain pieces of hardware on Hermès bags, such as the studs on the plaques and around the Touret. This process allows the studs to retain a perfectly round and shiny appearance, mimicking the beauty of a pearl, hence its name, that translates to “pearl work”. To achieve the pearling process, the artisans use a chisel with a small concave tip and hammer the studs making circular motions until the metal obtains its pearl shape.

Hardware abbreviation terms

Among Hermès enthusiasts and in the luxury resale market, there are certain abbreviations used to simplify the way to name the different types of hardware for Hermès bags. Next we will show you not only the abbreviations for the hardware, but also the official codes with which the brand labels its metals.

• GHW: It refers to Gold hardware.

• RGHW: Denotes that the bag has Rose Gold hardware.

• BGHW: Identifies Brushed Gold hardware, which has a matte finish in opposition to the shiny finish of gold.

• PHW: It refers to Palladium hardware.

• BPHW: It is used to identify Brushed Palladium hardware that shows a matte finish instead of shiny.

• PBHW: It represents Permabrass hardware, which is achieved by mixing both gold and palladium, obtaining a champagne-like color.

• Ruthenium: This type of plating is not as common, and this is why not everyone knows it. It is a strong metal that displays a dark silver tone.

• PVD: This hardware is a variation of the Ruthenium plating, which turns the metal from dark silver to pitch black with a semi-matte finish. This process is obtained through physical vapor deposition, which imprints a dark thin layer on top of the base metal. PVD hardware was introduced as part of the So Black collection, and it is present in very specific handbags.

• Lacquer: Some pieces of hardware are lacquered with enamel to add new colors to the metal finish, this is commonly used on the “H” shaped Constance bag clasp and other Hermès accessories.

• Guilloché: This is a term to refer to hardware that is carved with a diamond-like pattern.

• Exotic skin: There are some pieces of hardware that are covered with a layer of exotic skins, such as crocodile, lizard or alligator.

• CC: Official Hermès denomination for Gold hardware.

• CM: Official Hermès denomination for Brushed Gold hardware.

• CD: Official Hermès denomination for Rose Gold hardware.

• CK: Official Hermès denomination for Palladium hardware.

• CB: Official Hermès denomination for Brushed Palladium hardware.

• CP: Official Hermès denomination for Permabrass hardware.

• CY: Official Hermès denomination for Ruthenium hardware.

• CG: Official Hermès denomination for Diamond hardware.

• CZ: This abbreviation is only used for hardware applied to Special Orders or HSS (Horseshoe bags), it can include any type of hardware, even brushed versions.

Discover more about Hermès hardware.

Hermès’ skins related

Hermès leathers and skins are impressive, from calfskin to all sorts of exotic materials, their quality is undisputed. Here we will show you some of the terms you must know about Hermès skins and leathers. First we will delve into the meaning of different names for exotic skins, and then we will explore the words to describe certain aspects of Hermès leathers.

Alligator Mississippiensis

The Alligator Mississippiensis Hermès skin is a highly luxurious material sourced from sweet water alligators from the southern regions of the United States, specifically from the Mississippi River. The main characteristic of this skin is its scales that show a rectangular pattern with an asymmetrical style. This skin can be found on matte and shiny finishes.

Niloticus Crocodile

The Niloticus Crocodile Hermès skin is a very sophisticated material that is commonly used in the most expensive Hermès bags, such as the Himalaya Birkin and Kelly. This skin is sourced from the Nile River in Zimbabwe and it is characterized by smaller squared scales with better continuity. It can also be found on matte or shiny finishes.

Porosus Crocodile

Porosus Crocodile skin is a very attractive material, making it very exclusive and used in the most special Hermès handbags in small sizes. Porosus Crocodile is sourced from Asia and Australia, and it is easily recognized thanks to its smaller squared scales with distinctive pores in the center, hence its name “Porosus”. This type of skin can also be applied in matte or shiny finishes.

Varanus Niloticus Lizard

Varanus Salvator Lizard skin is incredibly luxurious and it is often used on exclusive Hermès handbags. This skin is originally from sub-Saharan Africa, from an animal called the African Nile Monitor Lizard. This material is extremely beautiful, with very small rounded and consecutive scales throughout its extension. It is often seen in very bright colors and it is available in both shiny and matte finishes.

Varanus Salvator Lizard

Finally, the gorgeous Varanus Salvator Lizard skin is one of the most sought-after of all Hermès exotic skins. It is sourced directly from a species only native to Southeast Asia, the skin is characterized by its beautiful consecutive round small scales in brown with beige colored rings drawn on top. The natural state of this skin is so incredible that Hermès often uses it without dying it, showcasing the true artistic patterns that it naturally has.

Additionally, there are certain terms that Hermès clients and sellers use to describe specific aspects of the skins that compose Hermès bags, here is a brief explanation of each term:

• Grain: it is a term used to refer to the natural pattern and veins displayed on calfskin, goatskin and buffalo skin.

• Patina: the luster that some skins acquire after being used for a while, enriching the color and overall appearance of the material.

• Boardiness: it refers to the level of stiffness of the skin and how easily it can hold its shape, if a skin has low boardiness it is usually supple and flexible.

• Hand: the hand refers to how the skin feels to the touch, how soft or rough it is.

• Sheen: the natural shine of a skin without extra processes or aging.

• Lissé: It is an official term to refer to the shiny quality applied to exotic skins.

• Matte: this word is used to label exotic handbags that don’t display a shiny or lissé finish, but an opaque finish.

Check more about Hermès skins and leathers.

Hermès bags’ abbreviations

There are some abbreviations that Hermès enthusiasts use online to refer to certain handbags, sizes or models. Here we will show you each one of them:

• B: Birkin bag.

• K: Kelly bag.

• C: Constance bag.

• GP: Garden Party bag.

• L: Lindy bag.

• P: Picotin bag.

• KC: Kelly Cut bag.

• KP: Kelly Pochette bag.

• KTG: Kelly To Go bag.

• CTG: Constance to Go bag.

• ML: Mini Lindy bag.

• TPM: It refers to “Très Petit Modèle” which is the smallest size for Evelyne bags.

• PM: It refers to “Petit Modèle” , the small size for Evelyne bags.

• GM: It refers to “Grand Modèle”, a bigger size for Evelyne bags.

• TGM: It refers to “Très Grand Modèle”, which is the biggest size for Evelyne bags.

• MKII: It is used to identify the Mini Kelly II. The Kelly II is a model that was released later to evolve some shapes of the original Kelly bag.

Hermès’ bags editions abbreviation terms

Aside from the Hermès handbags models, there are also other abbreviations used to refer to some of the special-edition bags or overall different terms that characterize Hermès bags. Here we show you.

• BBB: This abbreviation refers to a Black Box Birkin, which is the same as a Black Birkin in Box Calf Leather, a classic skin with a very distinctive shine, it was one of the firsts materials used to craft Hermès bags.

• BBK: Just like the Birkin, the BBK is used to refer to Black Box Kelly bags, which are Black Kelly bags made in Box Calf Leather.

• Baby Birkin: This name is commonly used to describe the Birkin 25 size, which is the smallest available. There is also a Birkin 20 but it is only produced for special-editions, such as the Birkin Faubourg.

• Faubourg: This is the name that every Hermès enthusiast knows, as it refers to the original location for the Hermès brand at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris. This name also represents a Birkin bag special-edition bag, the Birkin Faubourg.

• FSH: An abbreviation of Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

• Casaque: Is a color pattern used for Hermès bags and also a special-edition for Kelly and Birkin bags, it is a bag in which one side is dyed of one color, and the other side in another. This word also makes reference to the Rouge Casaque color, used as one of the hues for the Kelly Casaque special-edition.

• Himalaya: The Himalaya term refers to the most exclusive, sought-after and expensive special-edition of Birkin and Kelly bags, it is a colorway that resembles the Himalayan mountain range, with a brownish or gray tone for the rocks and beige or white for the snow.

• Kelly Doll: The Kelly Doll is a special-edition for Kelly bags. It is a cartoonish Kelly bag which features arms, feet, eyes and a mouth, it is named after the Quelle Idole design made by Jean-Louis Dumas.

• Picnic: The Picnic term refers to a Kelly bag special-edition, the Kelly Picnic, a bag that is made of calfskin and wicker, resembling a picnic basket.

• HSS: The HSS or Horseshoe stamp, it refers to custom handbags made especially for clients that order them. These bags are unique in the world and they are made to adapt to the preferences of the clients, combining multiple colors and stitches with different hues.

• SO: Special Order refers to the order that is placed to create a custom handbag or HSS. This term can also be used to identify the bag itself, people either use SO or HSS to make reference to this.

Other Hermès’ abbreviations and terms

Finally, let’s go over some interesting abbreviations and terms that are used to talk about other Hermès elements and subjects. Let ‘s dive in!

• Holy Trinity: The Holy Trinity is used to identify the three main exclusive Hermès handbags: Birkin, Kelly and Constance.

• Holy Grail: The Holy Grail is also used to refer to the three most sought-after Hermès bags: Birkin, Kelly and Constance.

• Pre-spend: This term refers to the previous purchases that clients make at official Hermès stores in order to build a client’s profile and be able to opt for a Hermès bag.

• Purchase history: The purchase history makes reference to the amount of Hermès products bought by a client at an official store, this history is taken into consideration to offer them to buy a bag.

• Quota bag: The quota bag or quota is a term used to refer to the two bags that a recurrent client can buy per year. It is only limited to Birkin and Kelly bags. This is determined by the store and it depends on how many accessories or other Hermès products the client has bought at the store. All Hermès stores get access to your purchase history to avoid you visiting another store to buy a third bag.

• Leather Appointment: The leather appointment is a term used to refer to the visit that a client makes to a Hermès store to start creating their Special Order bag or HSS. These appointments include picking the material for the bag, the colors, the stitches and sometimes specific colorways.

• Spa: The Hermès spa is a service that is given by the brand to every client that has an authentic Hermès product, it doesn’t matter if they bought it through resellers online. It works by taking your bag or product to the store and asking for the service, they will review the authenticity of the product and then take it in for restoration. The service has an additional cost but it is worth it to obtain a Hermès bag or accessory like new. If your bag is found to be fake, they will dispose of it and not return it to you, but you won’t face any legal charges.

• SA: This abbreviation is used to refer to Hermès stores’ sales assistants, people that talk to clients and help them with their requirements. You must hold a good relationship with your sales assistant to get access to Hermès bags.

• SM: This abbreviation is used for Hermès stores’ sales managers, they have a higher position and they approve the decision of a sales assistant to sell a bag to a client.

• Waiting list: The waiting list is a list where all customers who want to purchase a Hermès bag are registered. This list is often excessively long and can take months or even years of waiting. If you have an extensive purchase history and are considered a recurrent customer, you may be considered before other customers, but nothing guarantees it.

Now that you have learned a little bit more about these terms and abbreviations for Hermès bags and other elements of the brand, you’re ready to start your journey or continue building your collection.

If you’re looking to buy brand new in box Hermès bags online, with authenticity proof and the best prices on the resale market, don’t hesitate to explore our online store at The Birkin’s & Kelly’s House, your ideal place to find just what you need without waiting lists or inconveniences.

Don’t wait any longer and buy a new authentic Hermès handbag with us!